It was way back in 2019 while travelling in French Polynesia that a fellow traveller planted the seed of a visit to the Azores. Mind you, many years have passed since embarking on that incredible adventure, but like all committed travellers when a destination is put on the bucket list it’s only a matter of time before it inevitably gets checked off! My friend, a remote worker, advised if there was anywhere in the world she would like to settle it would be the Azores, now that’s some recommendation and always stuck in my mind. Well, finally I have the opportunity to see what all the fuss is about, and the chance to visit the Macaronesian Islands proved to be the major catalyst for embarking on this once in a lifetime European adventure. As part of Portugal, to visit requires a few hours flight out into the Atlantic Ocean from Lisbon before arriving in the capital Ponta Delgada, the island is situated roughly 1400 kilometres west of the Portuguese capital.
What a thrill to be here… The Azores are an autonomous region of Portugal and feel unique as both an island paradise but still feel like one is in the heart of Europe. The accommodation I booked is one of the most immaculate guesthouses I’ve stayed in, and the breakfasts are simply divine. I quickly fell into the routine of this new destination, and the friendly vibe from my roomies is just the ticket to make a new arrival feel right at home! I headed out to the historic centre of town, and the gorgeous Portuguese pavements are instantly recognizable, and such a feature of any Portuguese territory (or former territory). The town centre has beautiful restaurants and cafes, and also a few hotels for a quiet adult beverage if you are so inclined. Oh, and what European destination is complete without the amazing gelatos that have become my latest obsession while on this trip. You can’t find it in every shop, but banana and chocolate is a personal favourite and literally to die for. Featuring big chunks of chocolate surrounded by banana gelato, what a treat they are!
I headed out to a friendly motorbike store near the guesthouse which also offered rentals. The staff member helped get the contract locked away, and soon I was sorted with my wheels for the duration of the visit. It was a ripper of an Italian Aprilla 125cc that didn’t have many kilometres on the clock and proved to be a great little tourer. Once you have carefully navigated the city centre, being mindful to abide by the dizzying array of one-way streets … they told me at the guesthouse you can always tell by the direction the parked cars are facing on the narrow streets. Anyway, the highways are super impressive, and the mail is that road infrastructure has been generously funded by the EU. While zooming along the multi-lane highways it’s difficult to comprehend the commute is on a small island, as the infrastructure is super impressive. What a fabulous way to explore the island for a few days, and I also booked on two wonderful day tours to round out the visit. I joined up with other groups to explore the volcanic lakes and picturesque towns on this magnificent island. The first tour was to Lago das Sete Cidades for breathtaking views, and the second tour was to Lago do Fogo. I joined two brilliant groups of tourists who made me feel so welcome joining their teams, and the glorious nature from the viewpoints were the perfect end to what proved to be an immensely enjoyable visit to The Azores.
The next stop on the Macaronesian Islands is south to Madeira, which is also part of Portugal and the birthplace of Crisitano Ronaldo. Everything on this island is on a grander scale than The Azores. The capital city Funchal is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited with gorgeous architecture and immaculately appointed streets. The city is perched on sheer hilltops that provide spectacular, dramatic views of the Indian Ocean. From the outset I was stunned by the relaxed, breezy, and oh so friendly nature of the local inhabitants. Funchal captured my heart from the get go, and one of the many highlights is any impressive cable car in the city centre which travels 1,025 metres up to the hilltop parish of Monte. There is also a toboggan ride heading back downhill if you are so inclined!
I got to know the dynamic young owner of the hostel quite well, he is a real go getter and didn’t bat an eyelid at picking me up from the airport at 2:00am after outrageous delays from Azores Airlines, who kept the passengers waiting all day and half the night just to board a flight out of Ponta Delgada. Never mind, the intermittent chores of travel are quickly forgotten, especially after arriving at such a wonderful travel destination. I chose not to hire a motor scooter on this occasion, the streets of Funchal are extremely narrow and hilly with drivers tearing along seemingly without a care. Plenty of walking was on the agenda, and I enjoyed a visit to the baths with copious deck chairs and easy access to the ocean, even though they are on concrete floors. It was no problem signing on for the awesome west coast tour, featuring stunning cliff top scenery during the many stops. The highlight was driving up through the clouds to Pico Ruivo, with stupendous views of the jagged peaks from 1,862 metres above sea level. The next day, after a lot of scrambling, I was able to secure a spot with a different company for the east coast tour. There were beautiful stops along the way, including the fishing village of Camara de Lobos. The tour culminated in a visit to the beautiful volcanic pools of Porto Moniz. What a wonderful island, Madeira will always hold a special place in my heart.
The third and final destination in the Macaronesian Islands is further south to the Canary Islands, landing in the main tourist hub of Tenerife. Now I’m back in Spanish territory, and the tourism has ramped up even more. I stayed in Las Galletas as I wanted to be a little out from the mega tourist areas of Los Cristianos and Playa de las Americas. The volcanic island of Tenerife is a roaring tourist destination, it seems that every island I visit the scale of tourism ramps up exponentially. The hostel and guests in Las Galletas are fun and quirky, and with the advantage of a rental motor scooter I could head up the highway to explore the bigger resort spots. I’m glad I chose not to stay in Playa De las Americas, the scale of the tourism is almost overwhelming. But if the plan is to party, Veronicas Strip by the beach is absolutely heaving with action after the sun goes down. I would recommend Los Cristianos if you need to be a bit closer to the action, it’s not as insane as Americas but still very lively with a nicer beach.
I booked on a day tour to El Teide, the famous volcanic peak on the island. A convoy of jeeps tore up the mountain side to reach the peek at 3,715 metres, which is the highest point in Spain. The scenery is absolutely stunning, rugged and jagged volcanic peaks with some beautiful walks to explore. It’s reminiscent of Iceland in a way, another famous volcanic island with beautiful scenery. However that’s where the similarities end, visiting Tenerife at the tail end of summer the temperature has been perfect every day, with blue sky and maximums in the mid-twenties. The people of the island are super friendly, but switching from my rubbish beginners Portuguese to Spanish and then back again is really doing my head in. I keep answering in the wrong language, but the locals don’t seem to mind at all.
What a fabulous visit I’ve had to the Macaronesian Islands, I just wish I had the opportunity to add Cape Verde to the list. Oh well, there’s always next time I guess. These islands are stunning, a perfect blend of European culture and glorious natural scenery. When I think about the Macaronesian islands as a tourist destination, basically all of you should be here now!
“Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.” Helen Keller
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
Tom's music blog can be found here:
http://www.tomrooneymusic.com
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