It’s such a thrill to be back in Cambodia after all these years. One noticeable change is the hostel chain Onederz which certainly wasn’t around twenty years ago. The first hostel n the chain opened in the capital in August 2013 and has since spread to other major tourist locations, with all the amenities of a world class modern hostel. Visitors can relax by the pool, enjoy a drink at the bar or a meal at the restaurant. Featuring private and shared rooms aplenty, it seems that just about everyone stays at the hostel chain during a visit to this wornderful country. I flew into Phnom Penh at the conclusion of my stay in Laos, and made my way through customs and into a tuk tuk for the ride to the city centre. The scale of development in the country took me by surprise, as I’m told by locals the Chinese are investing heavily in the city (and the country as a whole). There are many glass and steel skyscrapers popping up in the centre which gives a modern feel to the city, but it’s still lovely to stroll around by the river in the evening to touch on memories of earlier times.
The centre of Phnom Penh is pumping, with the population of the country more than double that of Laos. There are skyscrapers and people galore; with the experience more reminiscent of being in Thailand than Laos. I headed out for a restaurant meal and a few beers by the river on my first night in the capital, where a waitress took a bit of a shine to me and provided warnings about the problems that can arise for tourists after dark. I appreciated her advice, and also the lasagna served up for dinnner! I headed back to Onederz later that evening to bunk down, and organised a day tour with the hostel staff after breakfast the next morning. It was a pleasant surprise to greet a Scottish girl from my travels in Laos over breakfast, but that is part of the joy of international travel.
The tuk tuk driver swung by in the morning and we headed out to explore the most famous attractions of the city. There are several cool tourist attractions in Phnom Penh, with the highlght being the magnificient Royal Palace of Cambodia. The complex is the official royal residence of the King of Cambodia, and a stunning tourist attraction to visit. Other highlights of the day trip included Wat Ounalom, Wat Phnom perched up on a hilltop, and the National Museum. It was a full day and my driver was super chilled, letting me explore at my own pace as there’s so much to see. The tour culminated in a visit to the Killing Fields which is not far from the city centre. It’s quite confronting walking through the grounds with headphones on as the graphic crimes of the murderous Khmer Rouge are detailed, but the terror of that recent history must be ackonwledged in the hope that mankind can avoid the depravity of these regimes moving forward. I chose not to visit Tuol Sleng genocide museum for a second time, as the experience is still seared in my memory from my visit to the capital twenty years ago.
I had a bus ticket organised for the next morning for the trip up to Siem Reap. The world famous home of the Angkor ruins is 314 kilometres northwest of the capital, and I’ve been waiting all these years to explore the magnificent temples for a second time. The commute proved effortless and comfortable in a clean and roomy minivan, the experience is similar to taking road trips in Thailand and a great way to travel. I checked in to Onederz and got a feel for the second time of this wornderful hostel chain, and headed out to the heaving Pub Street for an evening meal over a beer while watching the world go by from the restaurant balcony. What a spot this is, I certainly don’t recall all the fine dining options in beautiful modern restaurants that are now featured. The town centre has become quite the tourist mecca and is super impressive.
Next morning I organised a day tour to the Angkor ruins with a tuk tuk driver. What a day it was, and after stopping off to purchase a ticket the first stop is the incomparable Angkor Wat. I adore this temple and tried to put the heaving crowds in perspective to enjoy a few hours exploring the massive complex. There used to be a steep stone staircase to reach the top of the temple, with visitors clambering up like monkeys. But this has now been closed off, and travellers have the luxury of climbing a new wooden staricase at the back of the complex which even has handrails. We then headed out to explore the amazing stone faces and carvings of Bayon temple, then on to the summit of Ta Keo with its amazing views, and on to my faviourite Ta Prohm. This is the incredible temple where Tomb Raider was filmed, and features ancient trees that are gradually reclaiming the land amidst the superb stonework of the temple. I love this place and am so privileged to be able to return. The tour included a few other temples, and a visit to the Angkor ruins definitely needs a day (or two) to get full value from the UNESCO world heritage site.
Soon it was time for another journey south to visit Sihanoukville for the first time. I didn’t know too much about the city aside from it being on the beach and on the up and up. A short tuk tuk ride from the bus terminal and I was at Onederz to experience hostel number three in the chain. The bed and room and aircon, the pool and bar and common area were all first class, although I do have to say this hostel was not in an ideal location. I didn’t feel terribly safe wandering around at night, mainly due to the roaming dogs, so vowed to take tuk tuks for the duration of my visit. I booked a tuk tuk driver to explore the city for a day, which included many quality tourist attractions. However, the city comes across as slightly grimy at times, with waste and some run down areas not entirely to my taste. I explored the city centre in the evenings, and apparently there is massive chinese investment and influence in Sihanoukville. I only had a couple of days to explore, but there are some nice beaches and I’m glad to have had the chance to visit.
My final stopover was a short boat ride away before landing in legendary Koh Rong. The beach is magnificent, and the island is swarming with yourg tourists who flock here for the fun and the sun. I spent three wonderful nights at Onederz on Long Set beach and it was the perfect tonic to finish off five glorious weeks of adventure in South East Asia. When I think of all that Cambodia has to offer, basically of you should be here now!
“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” Unknown
It’s home time so until next time I’m signing off for now
Tom
Tom's music blog can be found here:
http://www.tomrooneymusic.com
- The glory of Angkor - June 11, 2026
- A close call in Laos - June 9, 2026
- Amazing Thailand - June 3, 2026