Mama Mia, when is Stockholm’s promised ABBA museum ever going to open! The latest from my guide book reads that despite several delays, the museum is finally scheduled to open in 2010. Well I can tell you, there was something in the air that night, but not ABBA’s museum! Sweden’s most famous musical export produced countless beautiful melodies here in Stockholm, some of them initially composed by Bjorn and Benny in the nearby Stockholm archipelago. ABBA are in fact the third highest record sellers in musical history, eclipsed only by Elvis and the Beatles, and the supergroup is often referred to as Sweden’s greatest gift to the world.
So there was to be no visit to the ABBA museum, dear reader, arising from my time in the Swedish capital. This followed on from a pleasant five hour train journey out of Gothenburg. Fortunately I was able to secure a week’s booking in the qaulity Best Hostel Old Town. You can’t get much better than this, and Stockholm is a magnificent picturesque European capital. The city is formed around 14 islands connected by 57 bridges, and there’s something magical about having these magnificent buildings in all direction’s right on the water’s edge. It truly lends itself to making an impressive city skyline! Stockholm has recently been voted the inaugural European Green Capital for 2010, with a commitment to city planning that is sustainable. This includes efficient waste management, clean and green transport, congestion charges in the city centre, and the goal to be fossil fuel free by 2050. The Swedes are leading the world in planning for a sustainable future. You can spend days strolling around this impressive and forward thinking city, and that’s exactly what I’ve done.
A highlight of my stay came about after booking a boat trip to the Stockholm archipelago, which included a two hour stopover with a guided tour on the famous Sandhamn Island. The archipelago is one of the biggest in the world, and stretches over 60 kilometres from the capital, comprising some 30,000 islands. We started the trip from the harbour, and the sky was as grey as a rerun of yesterday news on the tele. This didn’t augur well for photography, but our trusty boat navigated the narrow Stromma Canal, and other shallow canals before we got out to the outer islands. Then suddenly as we approached the dock the sun burst out and the sky turned a brilliant blue, to match the colour of the water.
The Swedes have a proud nautical tradition, and the boat trip to the outer islands passed Scandinavia’s biggest marina with 1,300 berths. It’s estimated there are around 900,000 pleasure crafts in Sweden, which means an extraordinary 1 in 10 Swedes are taking to the water regularly. After paying a visit to the archipelago one quickly understands why the locals rave about it’s beauty, and are so keen to get out on the water in the warmer months to enjoy the sea and all she has to offer. Mind you, the stakes were higher back in the 1700’s for the ship pilots who used to live on the islands in the outer archipelago. From Sandhamn island, for instance, the pilots would climb trees and watch out for a ship coming in, then row out to offer guidance for the ship through the archipelago to a safe berth in Stockholm. If they were successful they were paid. If, however, they ran into trouble in guiding the ship they had their heads chopped off by order of the king. Now that’s what I call a powerful incentive to produce good work!
The Sandhamn island tour was excellent and informative, and special thanks to our friendly guide from Stromma tourism. We enjoyed an extra hour strolling around the island on a picture perfect afternoon. There are no cars allowed on the island, and up to 100 people live there year round. The marina was chock-a-block with revelling Swedes, all enjoying a drink with friends at the marina in glorious weather. The northern hemisphere has severe winters, and the locals are determined to get full enjoyment from the summer months. We cruised back towards Stockholm, and passed preparations for a wedding ceremony at one of the canals. There is a church right on the canal, and it’s a popular location for marriage ceremonies.
I’ve enjoyed staying at my hostel in the Old Town. As you’d expect we are bunking down in a beautiful old building, and there’s been good symmetry in the dorm room. Most of us arrived on the same day, and have been here for similar periods so there’s been little turnover. I’m also the only native English speaker in the room, with everyone during my stay coming from Europe. It’s a pleasure to experience the calm and friendly manner of Europeans, who always manage to be charming and sophisticated. The hostel guests have been flat out exploring the city to get maximum usage from their Stockholm cards, but there’s always a friendly conversation when we cross each other’s paths back at the hostel.
As my visit to Sweden draws to a close, the country is a special travel destination. The locals are friendly, and travel costs have been surprisingly manageable. It’s certainly nothing like I expected before coming to Scandinavia, and I suggest now is the perfect time to pay a visit to Stockholm and the nearby archipelago. Here’s a thought, basically all of you should be here now!
“I have made this letter longer than usual, only because I have not had the time to make it shorter.” Blaise Pascal
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
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Tom's music blog can be found here:
http://www.tomrooneymusic.com
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