The result of the January 2011 referendum ensures Sudan will confront a period of momentous and irrevocable change. An overwhelming majority of the population in South Sudan voted for independence from the North, barely ten years after the cessation of hostilities in what was the longest running civil war on the African continent. As a result, North and South Sudan will be going their separate ways. The official date for the proclamation of the newly created South Sudan will be 9 July 2011, so this blog entry may well be the last from the unified country of Sudan. Khartoum is the engine room and traditional capital of the united Sudan, and will remain the capital of the newly created North…

Somaliland is still fighting an unsuccessful battle with the United Nations, in trying to achieve international recognition as an independent country. The people of this territory have taken a different path to the lawless, dangerous and chaotic goings on that dominate Somalia and Puntland, both of which are absolute no go zones for foreigners. The stark contrast in Hargeisa, however, sees the capital city of Somaliland on a peaceful path since 1991, where foreigners prepared to put in the effort to obtain a visa in advance receive a warm welcome. I scooped up a visa from Addis for forty bucks, and it was not a drama obtaining the necessary paperwork to visit one of the last frontiers in this wonderful…

Ethiopia is a country apart as a travel destination, there’s simply no doubt about it. During the past fortnight, I’ve borne witness to more intense experiences in this fascinating country than anywhere in the world … period! The moment you step outside the hotel there’ll be sights guaranteed to blow your mind, and it’s best to leave long held assumptions about western living at the door. Ethiopia features human interaction that is raw, it can be almost primal; but in spite of the confronting poverty there’s an underlying generosity of spirit that pervades the culture. The journal continues, dear reader, from where we left off in Addis Ababa. My growing fascination with Ethiopia continues apace, including the unique style of…

In case you’re wondering, dear reader, I can report from Addis Ababa that Ethiopian women are beautiful indeed. The local ladies are famed throughout the world for their otherworldly beauty, and strolling through the streets of the capital leaves one in no doubt the ladies are stunning! It seems having your hair done is an absolute must before venturing out onto the streets of Addis, and every day elegant big hair beauties with stunning facial features grace the sidewalks. Let’s bring you briefly up to speed, where the journal left off in Kigali at the end of an excellent fortnight in Rwanda. I took a midnight taxi to the airport, and we had to pull over during the trip as…

My eyes filled with tears fit for overflowing as I began to process the shocking information at the Kigali Memorial Centre. The genocide exhibition leaves one consumed with an overwhelming sense of anger, frustration and outrage, as visitors slowly come to grips with the tragedy of the Rwandan genocide. To be honest it's almost unbearable having to deal with such an unflinchingly honest and graphic portrayal of the lead up to; horrifying reality of; and devastating aftermath of the events in Rwanda in 1994. This tiny country shocked the world during an horrific three months of madness that cost up to a million lives. The journal continues in Rwanda, dear reader, where visitors to the Memorial Centre reflect on the…

Anyone fancy tracking animals through near impenetrable forest in teeming rain, while climbing steep slopes with slippery mud up to the ankles, and surrounded by nasty stinging nettles that will get ya for sure every time there's a fall? Well, if the final destination results in an intense face-to-face encounter with a silverback gorilla you can count me in! Tracking the rare eastern mountain gorillas is one of life’s great experiences, and I chose Rwanda as the base for this once in a lifetime adventure. There are only three countries in the world where it’s possible to track the gorillas, those being Rwanda, Uganda and Congo. The journal continues, dear reader, from where we left off rather dramatically with riots…

When a traveller jumps on the back of a boda boda for a ride through central Kampala, he or she is taking life into one's own hands, pure and simple. The centre of town features a chaotic meeting point of vehicles, all jostling for an inch of space, and all equally determined to arrive at their destination before the next guy manages to squeeze in. The city centre is packed with a riotous jumble of taxi vans, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians and potholes. Here in the capital of Uganda a driver's margin for error is razor thin; where knees and feet, elbows and shoulders come within inches of a potential impact with other vehicles. This is due to each guy accelerating…

The predators of the Masai Mara despatch their prey with extreme prejudice. Here in Kenya's world famous national reserve there is no mercy for prey animals, if a predator has even a sniff of an opportunity to kill and eat. This is nature at it's most primal, where humans are privileged to observe wild animals as they engage in a struggle to the death that stretches back to the dawn of man. Kenya plays host to African wildlife that is the envy of the world, and it's less than 200 kilometres west of Nairobi. The added bonus is a more competitive safari price than across the border in Tanzania. The great African adventure, dear reader, left off in Nairobi, after…

Believe it or not the title of this blog is is considered a compliment in Kenya. After all, here in Kenya they figure if you are fat you are prosperous, and if you are old you have survived. It's difficult to argue with the logic of the locals so there you have it. Whether you are old or whether you are young, it doesn’t matter as long as you come. One older gent I've been hanging out with in Nairobi told me over breakfast this morning, there may be snow on the rooftop but there’s fire in the furnace! Nairobi makes an excellent base for safaris to the world famous Masai Mara National Reserve, the final destination for a million…

The Serengeti Plains of Northern Tanzania offer unrivalled safari experiences for African wildlife enthusiasts like myself. The annual migration from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara national reserve in Kenya is the stuff of legends, where up to a million wildebeest and a quarter of a million zebras head north in search of fertile plains to graze. They must also run the gauntlet of an array of predators before reaching their final destination. This is nature at her most majestic, where an awe inspiring phenomenon has captured the imagination of lounge chair safari fans for generations. But life is not about a veg out in front of the telly, dear reader, here in Tanzania you can experience an authentic safari…