African travel is a humbling experience. I’ve arrived in the beautiful country of Malawi, as my second visit to the dark continent draws to a close. Malawi is often described as the warm heart of Africa, and travellers are sure to receive a special welcome from the Malawians who are famed for their friendliness. In hindsight though, if someone were to stop me in the street to ask the question: Hey Tom, you’re an experienced traveller now, what are your views then on the future of Africa? Unfortunately my response would be that I’m stumped for an answer. Africa … fascinating, infuriating, scintillating, excruciating and ever mysterious, the birthplace of mankind still faces a perilous future while the rest of the world continues to prosper.
I keep my journals apolitical, constant reader, and deliberately so. I am a traveller and not a politician, and thus far my African journals have steered clear of the devastation being wrought on sub-saharan Africa due to the HIV/AIDS epidemic. The question needs to be asked though, do 1,000 Malawians need to die of AIDS every day, in a pattern that is repeating itself in nations throughout the region? The answer is no, providing the people in need have access to the basic medicines and medical care we take for granted in the west. However, I am heartened by the large numbers of volunteers I meet in Malawi, many of whom are making a contribution in this vital field. There is also a far greater aid commitment coming from the west, as Malawi makes great strides towards entrenching the democratic process in the country. Democracy in Malawi means an end to the era of the African strongman, which is such a familiar theme in Africa. Unscrupulous leaders take from their people like a greedy lion dominating a fresh kill, yet give nothing in return. Inevitably an African strongman’s reign of fear crumbles when the African people gather the courage to rise up against injustice and depose him. This is symbolised by the African expression … the lion has lost his teeth.
I flew into Malawi from Jo’Burg on a two hour flight, and shared a taxi with some volunteers from the plane for the thirty kilometre trip from the airport to the capital Lilongwe. We checked into the excellent Mabuya camp hostel near the town centre. A few days of exploration has been just the ticket, including visits to the markets and heading to a recommended Indian restaurant for a superb lunch. But a highlight for any visit to the country is getting out to the beautiful Lake Malawi, and that was my plan. However, I discovered that as in Mozambique the journey is easier said than done when travelling in Malawi. The trip is not much more than 100 kilometres as the crow flies, but I arrived exhausted at my destination twelve hours later. While a westerner waiting hours for a bus to depart will stew and fume about wasted time, an African believes that if you wait long enough, time will come to you. Welcome to bus travel, African style!
The first thing to do is get on the minibus, no problem except for one small point. The driver will not set off until every single seat has a backside firmly placed on it. So you may wait two hours, twelve hours, I’ve even heard two days in more remote places. African bus travel is a unique experience! My first bus took me to Salima, and I was wrapped to be on the road with a busload of Malawians less than two hours after climbing onboard. In Salima the real fun started, and I had my first authentic African pick up truck experience. How can you describe the chaos, thirty people jammed into the truck tray alone and god knows how much luggage, food, supplies etc piled up in the back. This sixty kilometre journey took nearly five hours, stopped everywhere, people got off but invariably more got on, luggage was piled on the back like you wouldn’t believe including a lady with dried fish boxed up in a massive container that must have weighed 130 odd kilos (six guys strained to lift it on to the tray) all the other luggage went off, then was piled back on top of the dried fish and retied. And as for us, we basically couldn’t move we were so tightly jammed together. Oh yeah, then the truck went off road for nearly two hours.
I arrived in Monkey Bay, got ripped off on the price to catch a pick up for the last hour leg to Lake Maclear, but finally arrived at a gorgeous bungalow style hostel right on the lake. There were a bunch of girls in the dorm who invited me to dinner, and one commented that I looked remarkably fresh after twelve hours of chaotic travel, I replied that was because I now had a beer in my hand. I spent four days on Cape Maclear and it was a great experience. The sunsets are some of the most spectacular I’ve ever witnessed, and the lake goes through extraordinary changes of colour that I have tried to capture in the series of photos accompanying this journal. I loved it on Lake Maclear, the staff and locals were absolutely brilliant and there were a few very mellow travellers also enjoying the solitude of the lake and the pristine views it provides. This idyllic stopover is a great opportunity to recharge the batteries after some tough travelling.
Then it was time to head back to Lilongwe, so as to connect with flights home. I was told there was a direct bus to Lilongwe from Monkey Bay, and we just managed to chase it down in our pick up truck as we got on the highway. I was travelling with a German couple and we were happy as larry, that is until we went off road. We were at the back of the bus and the dust billowing in as the bus bumped and jerked along was out of this world. If dust were holy water, the passengers on this bus would be well on the way to sainthood! I also found during my travels in Malawi that whether the locals were young or old, whether male or female; the Malawians had a tendency to lean against me luxuriously as if I were a lounge chair. I mean to say, I’m here to help as the saying goes, but I certainly never realised I was that comfy! Just before Lilongwe the conductor scrambled up on the roof behind me, and gradually leveraged a big, heavy canvas bag down and straight on to the head of a local woman. The bag was clearly labelled, 50kg cake flour. The lady adjusted it once, waited briefly for her bloke and then calmly headed off down the road. The hits just keep on coming here in Southern Africa.
The trip is rapidly drawing to a close, and it’s time to catch a flight back to Jo’burg to link up with my connecting flight home. For the second time I prepare to leave the dark continent with passion in my heart, and hope for the dignified people of this mighty continent. Africa is an incredible travel destination where, basically all of you should be here now!
“I saw the angel in the marble and carved until I set him free.” Michelangelo
It’s home time so until next time, I’m signing off for now
Tom
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