The mighty Nile River is the longest in the world, originating in Uganda and flowing through several African countries, before it meanders through Egypt to the mediterranean sea. The annual Nile floods have sustained Egyptian civilisation for thousands of years, and the black sediment left after the floods has provided fertile soil for the people of Egypt in this desert country. A visit to Egypt isn’t complete without a cruise on the Nile to visit the magnificent temples, and it’s been a dream of mine for some period of time.
So as we prepare to set sail, dear reader, let’s quickly bring the journal up to speed. We left off in Cairo after returning from the Sahara, from where I boarded an overnight sleeper train for the journey south to Upper Egypt, and my first port of call Aswan. On the train I was fortunate to meet a solo traveller from Austria, and we traded a few stories before bunking down for the night. I have always loved train journeys, as they have a certain rhythm that can’t be matched. We didn’t get the chance to enjoy the scenery on an overnight journey, but it was wonderful to stretch out on a full bed after a decent meal. In the morning we had breakfast served, and looked out on the Nile river before arriving in Aswan around 10:00am. We were met by our respective guides at the station, and taken to the same hotel for an introduction to the city and a chance to chill out. After checking in to the Nile boat that would be home for the next three days, we headed off with some other travellers on a minibus tour for the afternoon. We visited the Philae temple on a picturesque island, and then went to the High Dam of Aswan, which is the third largest in the world. The massive dam harnesses the power of the Nile River to benefit the Egyptian people downstream, and it’s Russian engineers built a mighty and impressive structure.
I then headed back onboard the M.S. Beau Soleil to relax for the evening, and was up and at ’em at 2:00am to prepare for the three hour drive to Abu Simbel temple south east of Aswan. The temple is a three hour drive in the dead of night, but hundreds of tourists in several buses and minivans all took the trip out together under military convoy. Egypt has no intention of having a repeat of the horrific massacre of tourists that took place at a Luxor temple in the 90’s. Abu Simbel is astonishing, and the whole temple has been raised to higher ground after Lake Nasser was flooded at the completion of the high dam. We spent three hours at this remarkable monument to the Egyptians pharaohs, before returning to Aswan by lunch time.
I scoped out internet prices onboard the cruise ship which were exorbitant, and still owed my Austrian friend a hundred pounds, as I left the boat to go to Abu Simbel penniless being half asleep. I needed to head into town to pop online and repay my travel friend at his hotel as he spotted me the entrance fee, but little did I know this short walk would turn into quite the adventure. I disembarked to stride boldly down the road, and instantly the hawks were all over me like a cheap suit. It’s all good, I figured, it ain’t like a first time experience for me! Ride on my carriage, give me five pounds, blah blah blah. But in hindsight the whole pitch seemed a bit orchestrated to throw me off balance. And then the two boys arrived… The ruse was selling postcards which they pushed against my shorts while I was walking, then below the cards they expertly got their hands into my done up side zipper to boost my cash. The whole experience was a bit uncomfortable and I knew straight away I’d probably been done over, but I tips ‘me hat to the pickpockets as they were definitely a pair of pros.
What to do, what to do?! I took a few breaths then headed back to the boat for more cash as I had commitments. You know … places to be, people to see type thing. Then I strode straight down the same road barely five minutes later. When a kid approached me and asked for five pounds I pointed a stern finger at him and said “Don’t touch”. He backed off, and all the street hustlers burst out laughing. I also had a smile on my face, but we were communicating on a deeper level, and I think my intentions were made clear. It was like, ok guys, your A-team just did me over good style, but I’m still gonna live my life! So I continued into town to do my thing on the second attempt and returned the same way, bought some water from one of the touts, then decided to lodge a complaint with the policeman stationed at our dock. Of course I wasn’t expecting anything to come of my complaint, but thought I should let them know. After all, this policeman and the petty crims work the same beat every day, so another dumb tourist is hardly gonna turn their world upside down.
We sailed north to Luxor with a couple of stops at temples along the Nile, and I was sharing the trip with a Canadian guy I met on the first tour out of Aswan. There was heaps of food, and the staff were very friendly. Plus we got to experience the people of the Nile Valley living their timeless lives, as they have done for several millenia. After arriving in Luxor I had a jam packed day with a young American girl who was travelling solo to post revolutionary Egypt as her first overseas trip. That really blew me away! She is lovely though, and in good hands with the guides from our company, who do a great job showing us around and educating us on their proud culture.
We visited several magnificent temples during an unforgettable day in Luxor, and also explored the tombs of the pharaohs in the Valley of Kings. What a terrific way to bring to a close my visit to the Nile Valley! The ancient capital of Egypt is brimming with extraordinary temples on both sides of the river, particularly the East and West bank of Luxor. This city is the tourist hub of Egypt and my knowledgeable guide Lami said around six million Egyptians are employed in the tourist trade. He is desperate for foreign tourists to return to one of the cradles of civilisation and might even suggest, basically all of you should be here now!
“Ordinarily he was insane, but he had lucid moments when he was merely stupid.” Heinrich Heine
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
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Tom's music blog can be found here:
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