The Egyptian revolution of 2011 captivated the world, and proved to be a triumph for the people of this great nation. An overwhelming desire for freedom and liberty has culminated in extraordinary scenes in and around Tahrir square during the last month, as the former regime was driven from office by the will of the people. There are many wonderful experiences to be had in this world we share, but it’s truly an honour to visit post revolutionary Egypt only weeks after unprecedented waves of humanity in Cairo and Alexandria made an emphatic statement of intent about their future.
I greet you again, the lovely reader, as the Egyptian people make the necessary transition to free and fair elections, and look forward to a bright future as a democratic republic. At the same time I’m thrilled to be easing into a long trip to explore the wonders of North and East Africa. There’s no place like home, and for the next three months this wonderful, exotic, exhilarating continent will be the base for my adventures. What a wonderful opportunity to explore, so let’s get cracking together as the journey begins… Flying into Cairo is one of those unique travel moments many of us have enjoyed, but it has to be said this bustling city of twenty million people certainly has it’s challenges. I blundered around like a rank amateur as the revolution forced a change to my best laid plans of finding the hostel. The airport shuttle to downtown seems to have been cancelled or maybe it’s just me, but anyways I got to share a local bus (or two) for the twenty kilometre ride to downtown. One can’t argue with the price though, at a pound and a half Egyptian, I paid less than 30 cents to get from the airport, when I’d just paid 15 dollars to get to the airport in Sydney barely twenty four hours earlier. I staggered around after several locals trying to help on more than one occasion, and just couldn’t get my bearings as the bus didn’t stop where I had expected, street signs were difficult to find, and my map was well below par. Anyways, at the end of nearly three hours blundering around I was relieved to finally check into the great Wake Up Cairo hostel and get myself sorted.
It was time to see the legendary pyramids of Giza, and I was booked for the next morning. My driver fanged the car to the outskirts of Cairo, where I marveled at the unique experience that is commuting in Cairo. Fair dinkum, it’s like one giant smash up derby in this city, and every single car has dings that would make a western car lover cry a river into his cappuccino! I’m not talking scratches or a little dent, it seems cars have to be christened with seriously bashed in panels to get respect in this wild and vibrant city. And horns, yep, I guess they put them in cars to be used … repeatedly, and how’s about crossing the road? Mate, talk about playing chicken here in Cairo. The local drivers are for real and nine times out of ten won’t even slow down unless you own that little piece of road, but then you have to negotiate with the next dude. And lanes, clearly they’re an optional extra. Drivers just career all over the road like it’s dodgem car city … what an absolutely rip roaring time of it! But somehow it all seems to work for the locals, and we got to Giza alright.
So then it was time to climb on a camel to explore the pyramids and the incomparable sphinx, when a day or two earlier I was riding my motorcycle back home in Sydney. He was not quite as quick and a trifle smellier, but my cranky old boy provided an unforgettable ride on the edge of the Sahara desert. My guide took me around and gave me the good oil on these monumental testaments to one of the world’s oldest civilisations. During the afternoon I marveled at the ancient treasures in the Egyptian Museum, and also visited Tahrir Square where there’s plenty of raw emotion on display. The last remaining protestors treasure their revolutionary success, but are still conflicted as they deal with the emotion of mourning their dead. The next morning I was booked on a desert tour for a few days out in the Western Sahara, and my hostel organised a bus ticket for the 400 kilometre journey out to the Bahariya Oasis in the desert. I was met on arrival by a bedouin guide at the Oasis, and we took off out to the desert with a fellow bedouin; our Abydous desert tour group comprised just the two of them and yours truly.
The desert was mind boggling, and I was blown away by the vastness and superb scenery on offer. We did some serious off-roading, and visited places that will live on in my memory forever. It was a wonderful experience on a chilly night to sleep under the stars in the vast and silent desert, and our only company were desert foxes hovering around the campfire searching for scraps. The next day the bedouin desert boys drove me back into town, in order to jump on the bus back to Cairo as a meeting point for the next tour. This journal chronicles my fast paced and unforgettable introduction to timeless Egypt where, basically all of you should be here now!
“An economist is an expert who will know tomorrow why the things he predicted yesterday didn’t happen today.” Laurence J. Peter
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
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