That is the question, methinks. The setting for the Bard’s play based on the trials of a Danish prince is Kronborg Castle in North Zealand, less than an hour north of Copenhagen. And the answer … hell yeah, bring it on I doth protest! Denmark is the destination following a short ferry trip across the Baltic from northern Germany, after starting on the bus in Amsterdam. The Vikings hail from the three Scandinavian countries whose destinies have been intertwined for a thousand years, and it’s great to be here to explore for the first time. I booked into the central Danhostel in Copenhagen for a week in the wonderful capital city, and the surrounding attractions of Zealand. Denmark is a tiny country, but a country that’s had a profound effect on Europe over the centuries, and definitely for the better.
Copenhagen is a great city to explore, dear reader. However, there was strange karma in the air one day when I was strolling through Stroget, the heaving pedestrian shopping precinct that stretches for a kilometre, and the largest in Europe. First a hobo nearly got in a fight with a human statue artist by getting right in his face and then kicking his stand, two guys were passed out drunk near the fountain, and to top it off a street performer went on strike. He’s doing his routine in front of a big crowd, and asks for help to hold his unicycle. A guy does so reluctantly, then he asks another girl who is too shy and walks away. “Ladies and gentlemen” he announces “this is street theatre. It only works with audience participation. But that’s OK, you don’t have to leave, cause I’m going to!” It was hilarious, mainly cause the guy was serious. Everyone was standing around stunned as he just started packing up his gear, the show was definitely over.
I’m staying on the 6th floor at the biggest hostel in Europe, as it’s the only one to guarantee a week’s booking in the height of summer, but adaptability is the key to travel. I use the fire stairs every time to keep the experience real, cause back in Australia I wait patiently for lifts almost every day. Denmark is not a cheap destination, but a few beers at dusk down by the canal while listening to the ipod is just the ticket. There’s a very strong recycling culture here in the Danish capital. I pointed out a few empty Carlsbergs to a guy collecting on his bike. The guy had been working as a builder, but pointed to his knee and told me about his injury. But he had pride, he was working. He said he didn’t want to sit around and watch TV. “Keep working” I called after him as her rode off “Enjoy your holiday” he replied “but try Tuborg next time. It tastes better.”
Another day I headed off on a long morning walk searching for the Little Mermaid, a world famous tourist attraction. I’d done my homework on the map so just kept walking along the harbour, with pride preventing me from asking about the whereabouts of the mysterious disappearing mermaid. It was an awesome walk on a beautiful day, but it was only after I was back in the dorm that night an Italian guy informed me she is off in China, maybe on holidays or something. Never mind, the city’s most famous author Hans Christian Andersen still gazes over at the Tivoli attraction park in the middle of the city, where modern day kids squeal in terror and delight, as they board the rollercoaster and other daredevil rides.
I spent a day in Roskilde after taking a short train ride, a small city famous for the Viking ship museum. The city is gorgeous and situated on Roskilde fjord. The Roskilde cathedral houses the catacombs of former Danish monarchs, and the museum is fascinating. A highlight was watching the film of the reconstructed Viking ship that journeyed from Roskilde and Dublin and back during 2007-2008. The Vikings were not just terrifying warriors, they were expert seamen and traders who had a profound influence on shaping Europe’s history. The North Zealand castles tour is a superb full day where our top notch guide told us all about Copenhagen, the coastal road heading north, and finally the two superb castles of Frederiksborg and Kronborg. The later was the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, and the impressive castle was built in the late 1500s mainly by King Christian IV. It was designed to impose itself over the Baltic, and to intimidate the Swedes who are just four kilometres away.
On my final day I caught the train up to Humlebaek to visit the superb Louisiana modern art museum. The building and garden looking out to the Baltic are out of this world, and it goes without saying the museum houses a fabulous international collection of modern art. I don’t think I’ve been to a museum in a more picturesque location. And finally, what trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to the free state of Christiania. It’s been a hippy commune since the 70’s in old army barracks right in the heart of Copenhagen … and real trippy man! When you leave the sign says *you are now entering the EU* I like it! Come and visit wonderful Copenhagen with it’s superb cycling infrastructure. There’s also plenty of surrounding attractions in Zealand that are accessible from the Danish capital, basically all of you should be here now!
“The executive of the modern state is but a committee for managing the common affairs of the whole bourgeoisie.” Karl Marx
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
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