The Scottish Highlands are dead sexy, and at the heart of all this wild and sexy stuff is a 1,500 year old mystery, featuring a legendary monster who lurks within the depths of Loch Ness. We were at the end of day one on an awesome Scottish Highlands tour, and our group was looking forward to a boat trip on the most famous loch in the world, when we were told that our skipper had mysteriously vanished. Had this ever happened before, we asked our guide, and the answer was no. The following words may be of international significance, but the only plausible explanation is the skipper was taken by Nessie, thereby providing incontrovertible proof of the existence of the wee water monster!
But let’s back up for a moment, dear reader, in order to bring the journal up to date. I flew from Belfast on an effortless easyJet flight to Edinburgh, and stumbled straight into the middle of the world famous Edinburgh festival. Just as I experienced in Munich a few years ago, this trip happened to coincide with a world famous festival, although I didn’t realise it at the time I made the booking. The combination of the Edinburgh Tattoo, the festival and the accompanying fringe all lead to Edinburgh doubling her population during the month of August. Fortunately I booked a hostel for the duration of my stay a week earlier owing to general peak season madness, and was fortunate to be firmly ensconced in the middle of the buzzing festival. I’m staying at the terrific Belford hostel which is a converted cathedral in the heart of the new town, with heaps of communal space downstairs and a friendly and relaxed Australian manager. However, the fickle UK weather has finally shown it’s true colours here in the capital. The weather man said on the radio the other day that Edinburgh has had an average month worth of rainfall over the first two days of my visit, but you learn to get on with it as best you can.
One night I got a heads up from an Aussie waitress that Paul Kelly was playing at the Spiegel tent at 11:00pm. I fortified myself with a pint of guinness and, er … perhaps a second one for that wee bit of extra fortification, and then trudged out in the pouring rain to see if I could snaffle a last minute concert ticket, to see a legendary Australian songwriter. I asked at the box office and they informed me that unfortunately he started his set an hour and a half ago, and further that this was his last night performing at the festival. Never mind, at least I tried and later consoled myself while dripping into my pint at a local bar.
So then, after three nights in Edinburgh during the legendary festival, with or without Paul Kelly, it’s still all good. Bugger the weather, the festival and the city itself rocks! Edinburgh castle lies perched imperiously on a hill top in the very heart of town, and the Royal Mile is a gorgeous street full of magnificent buildings. Plus the city is full of Scots which is the icing on the cake for an awesome combination. However, I decided it was time to push on, and booked a three day tour to the Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye with Haggis adventures. As I arrive back at the Edinburgh hostel for my final night I have the chance to reflect on a wonderful adventure, which took place in one of the most significant historical parts of the English speaking world. If we leave aside for a moment the astonishing scenery that assails the senses at every turn, the tour also provides a unique opportunity to gain an insight into the complex relationship between England and Scotland, that stretches back more than 500 years. The highlands tour is strongly recommended and very educational.
The Highlands is a fascinating travel destination, and features warriors famed for the legendary highland charge. They preferred to charge downhill, and fall upon the unsuspecting red coats fighting to protect the English crown. The beserk terror merchants charged into battle half naked, covered in tattoos and swinging their deadly claymore swords about their heads in a whirling arc. This evil weapon was capable of lopping off several heads per revolution. However, due to collateral damage many of those severed heads turned out to be fellow clansmen, and this method of attack was eventually discontinued.
We visited magnificent castles on our tour, and also enjoyed the breathtaking scenery around Glen Coe for a picnic lunch. To top things off we finally arrived at Nessie’s home for a visit and a bit of wee water monster spotting. The next day we headed on to the wild and windswept Isle of Skye, which is home to hairy coos (cows that is), heaps of sheep and unfortunately far too few Highlanders. The Highland clearances were enforced by the English after the massacre of the Battle of Culloden in 1746, and is an ongoing tragedy for this wonderful country. But it does help explain why so many people in the new world claim Scottish heritage. It’s been estimated over six million people around the world claim the surnames of MacDonald or MacLeod which is quite extraordinary. They were the biggest clans on the Isle of Skye, and very prominent in the Highlands generally.
Bitterness towards the English remains in the Highlands, even though the terrible days where the Gaelic language and the wearing of kilts were banned are long since gone. Scotland is similar to Ireland, and I was fascinated to learn the first settlers in Scotland sailed across from Ireland, hence the shared language. Another thing both countries have in common is no great love for the English. I went to a Highlander bar in Inverness one night to enjoy an evening of traditional Scottish and Irish songs, with accompanying dancers and it was a foot stomping head nodding musical experience to savour. At one stage I was dragged on to the dance floor by a local for some traditional dancing. Towards the end of the first set the singer told the enthusiastic crowd the band would be taking a short break, when someone called out there was no room. What do you mean no room, replied the singer into the mike, there’s enough room in here to swing an Englishman. I think you get the picture from this wee snapshot of life in the Highlands!
So here I am back in the thick of a major world artistic festival to finish off an amazing week travelling in wonderful Scotland. The city of Edinburgh is an exciting world capital, and the scenery in the Scottish Highlands is as beautiful as anywhere in the world. The Scottish have a proud and militaristic history that is fascinating in it’s own right, and it all adds to the appeal of visiting this wonderful country. Scotland is rich in history, full of national pride, and features enduring clan loyalties forged over the centuries amongst the fierce Highland warriors. It all adds up to an impressive travel package.
I’ve quickly grown to love this wee country with such a fierce heart and suggest, basically all of you should be here now!
“O flower of Scotland, when will we see your likes again, who fought and died for your wee bit of hill and glen and stood against him, proud Edward’s army and sent them homeward to think again.” Roy Williamson
As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now
Tom
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Tom's music blog can be found here:
http://www.tomrooneymusic.com
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